Housewrap, Flashing, and Starters: Siding Done Right in Vigo County

Most siding failures around Terre Haute aren’t caused by “bad siding.” They’re caused by missing housewrap, weak flashing details, crooked starter strips, and shortcuts on older walls. Siding is the part everyone sees. The layers behind it are what keep your home dry, straight, and solid through West-Central Indiana’s wind, storms, and freeze–thaw cycles.

Request a Free Estimate

📞 Call 765-505-8383

This guide breaks down the three hidden parts of a proper siding job such as housewrap, flashing, and starter strips and why they matter so much for homes in Vigo County, Terre Haute and nearby communities.

Quick Answer

Siding is not a waterproof seal. On a long-lasting wall:

• Housewrap (WRB) is the drainage plane that stops bulk water and reduces drafts.
• Flashing directs water away from windows, doors, roofs, and trim so it can’t sneak behind siding.
• Starter strips set the first course straight and high enough off the ground so everything above it runs level and avoids splashback.

When these three are installed correctly, vinyl, fiber cement, and engineered wood siding can handle Indiana’s heavy rain, humid summers, and freeze–thaw cycles without rotting the structure behind them.

Siding Isn’t Waterproof (Especially In Indiana’s Climate)

Siding is designed to shed most of the water, not to act as a sealed, waterproof barrier. That’s a problem if the wall behind it isn’t built to handle the way West-Central Indiana really behaves.

Around Terre Haute and Vigo County, homes deal with:

• Wind-driven rain across open fields and open lots
• Humid summers that push moist air into any small gaps or leaks
• Clay-heavy soils that splash mud and water against lower siding
• Freeze–thaw cycles that turn tiny openings into wider cracks over time

So yes, some water getting behind vinyl siding, lap siding, or panel siding is normal. The issue isn’t that water ever gets back there. The issue is when it has no controlled path to drain and dry, and instead sits against bare OSB, old wood siding, or unprotected framing.

A professional siding installation treats the exterior as a wall system, not just a color change:

• Siding to shed the majority of rain and protect from impact and UV
• A continuous water-resistive barrier (WRB/housewrap) to protect the sheathing
• Proper flashing at windows, doors, roofs, decks, and trim transitions
• A level, well-placed starter course to keep siding straight and off grade

When those four pieces work together, the wall can drain, breathe, and move with Indiana’s weather. That’s what separates a quick cosmetic overlay from a siding upgrade in Terre Haute that actually protects the home long term.

Housewrap: The Water-Resistive Barrier That Protects the Wall

Housewrap is the continuous water-resistive barrier (WRB) installed over the sheathing before any siding goes on. It is not optional trim; it is what turns siding from simple cladding into a weather-ready wall system.

It does two critical jobs:

• Blocks bulk water that gets behind vinyl, lap siding, or panels
• Reduces air infiltration that leads to drafts, energy loss, and condensation inside the wall

On many older homes in Terre Haute and nearby small towns, past siding was installed directly over bare sheathing or old wood siding with little or no WRB. When we re-side those homes, that’s the ideal time to correct it and protect the structure for the next 20–30 years.

Key best practices we follow:

• Install housewrap shingle-style so every upper piece overlaps the piece below it. Water should always have a clear path to drain down and out.
• Tape or seal critical seams and corners, especially on windward walls that see the hardest rain.
• Integrate housewrap with window and door openings using proper flashing tapes so water cannot sneak behind frames and trim.
• Seal around penetrations like lights, vents, hose bibs, and electrical boxes so they don’t become hidden leak points.

When it is detailed correctly, the housewrap creates a continuous drainage plane. The siding is the outer shell; the WRB is the real water defense that keeps sheathing, framing, and insulation from staying wet.

Flashing: Controlling How Water Leaves the Wall

Flashing is what tells water where to go when it reaches a joint, opening, or transition. Most serious siding leaks we fix in West-Central Indiana don’t start in the middle of a wall, they start where roofs meet walls, around windows and doors, or at horizontal trim.

When flashing is detailed correctly, water is redirected onto the face of the siding and out of the wall system instead of into it.

Windows and Doors

These are the highest-risk leak points.

• Use sill pans or self-adhered flashing at the bottom of each opening so any water that gets in drains back out.
• Lap side and head flashings into the WRB shingle-style so water always flows over, not behind, each layer.
• Install trim and caulk to help shed water, not trap it. Caulk is a backup, not the primary waterproofing.

If this step is rushed or skipped, water can bypass the siding, soak the framing, and show up later as rot, soft drywall, or stained interior finishes.

Roof-to-Wall Intersections

Anywhere a roof dies into a wall, concentrated water flow is guaranteed.

• Install proper step flashing along the shingles and always include kick-out flashing at the bottom where the roof meets the wall.
• Without a kick-out, roof water is driven directly behind the siding, often rotting sheathing and studs in that corner.

It’s a small piece of metal that prevents some of the most expensive repairs we see.

Horizontal Trim and Band Boards

Decorative details still have to drain.

• Flash the top edge of belly bands, water tables, and horizontal trim with metal or Z-flashing.
• Do not allow water to sit on top of trim where it can wick into siding or sheathing.

Simple flashing here dramatically extends paint life and prevents hidden moisture damage.

Decks, Porches, and Steps

These are constant splash and snow zones in our climate.

• Maintain proper clearance between siding and deck boards, porches, and steps.
• Flash above ledger boards and key connections so water cannot track into the wall assembly.

Good flashing is not about sealing everything shut. It is about creating a clear, predictable path for water to exit the wall so the siding, WRB, and structure can handle Indiana’s weather without failing early.

Starter Strips: The Hidden Piece That Keeps Siding Straight

Starter strips are one of the most overlooked parts of a siding system and one of the first places DIY installs go wrong. If the base isn’t right, every row above it will show it.

Why starter strips matter:

• They control the exact height of the first course.
• They set the level line that every row of siding follows.
• They keep the bottom edge out of constant moisture, splash, and ice.

Best practices we follow:

• Set starter strips perfectly level, even when the ground slopes. If the starter is off, every course above it will “climb” or “droop” across the wall.
• Maintain proper clearance: usually 1–2 inches above concrete, patios, and decks, and even higher above soil or mulch. This helps prevent splashback, wicking, and winter damage at the bottom edge.
• Use manufacturer-approved starter strips matched to the siding system, whether vinyl, fiber cement, or engineered wood, so the panels lock correctly and stay secure.
• Check and re-check the first two courses before running the wall. Small adjustments here prevent big waves, gaps, or buckles at window lines, gables, and corners.

When homeowners notice wavy, buckled, or uneven siding along the bottom, it’s often not a “bad product.” It’s usually a starter strip or clearance issue that was never set up right in the first place.

Why These Details Matter More In Vigo County And Surrounding Areas

On real homes in Terre Haute and nearby communities, we see the same conditions over and over:

• Older framing and walls that aren’t perfectly straight
• Additions, enclosed porches, and repairs with mixed or missing sheathing
• Open exposures that take full wind, driving rain, and snow
• Clay soils that splash dirty water high onto lower siding

In this environment, skipping housewrap, flashing, or proper starter installation almost always shows up later as:

• Rotting sheathing at corners, windows, and roof-to-wall transitions
• Soft spots where roofs, decks, or porches meet siding
• Siding that waves, gaps, or pulls loose along the first few rows
• Paint and caulk joints failing years earlier than they should

When housewrap, flashing, and starter strips are all done right, the wall can drain, dry, and move with temperature changes. The siding lasts longer, the structure stays protected, and homeowners avoid the hidden water damage that turns a simple siding project into a major repair.

Can You Just Install New Siding Over Old Siding?

Many homeowners search this before they ever call: “Can you put new siding over old siding?” It sounds cheaper, faster, and less messy, but it comes with real trade-offs, especially in a climate with humidity, storms, and freeze–thaw cycles.

What homeowners should understand:

• You can’t see or repair hidden rot, mold, or insect damage trapped behind the old siding.
• You can’t properly install a continuous water-resistive barrier (WRB/housewrap) directly over the sheathing.
• You can’t fully integrate modern flashing details at windows, doors, decks, and roof-to-wall transitions.
• You increase the risk of trapping moisture between layers, which is a bad match for humid summers and freezing winters.

Overlay siding might be technically allowed in a few situations, but if the goal is a durable, energy-conscious, low-maintenance exterior for the next 20–30 years, the better approach for Terre Haute and West-Central Indiana is to do it once and do it right:

• Strip what’s there so the wall can be inspected.
• Repair any soft, wet, or damaged framing and sheathing.
• Install a continuous WRB/housewrap as the drainage plane.
• Add proper flashing at openings, trim, decks, and roof transitions.
• Set starter strips level and at the correct clearance off grade.
• Then install the new siding to manufacturer specs.

That sequence turns a basic siding replacement into a full wall-system upgrade that actually protects the home instead of just hiding existing problems.

Eight-Step Installation Checklist For A Lasting Siding Job

Use this clear, local process to show homeowners (and search engines) exactly how you handle siding projects in Terre Haute and West-Central Indiana:

1. Remove existing siding as needed and inspect the sheathing, corners, and roof-to-wall areas for any signs of rot, mold, water staining, or insect damage.
2. Repair or replace soft, damaged, or uneven framing and sheathing so the new siding has a solid, flat, and stable base.
3. Install housewrap (WRB) shingle-style over the sheathing, carefully detailing seams, corners, and transitions to create a continuous drainage plane.
4. Flash windows, doors, band boards, and penetrations (lights, vents, hose bibs, electrical boxes) with compatible flashing tape and metal flashings so water is directed out, not in.
5. Install kick-out flashing and proper roof-to-wall flashings wherever a roof meets a wall to control concentrated runoff and prevent hidden leaks.
6. Set siding starter strips perfectly level and at the correct clearance above soil, mulch, concrete, patios, and decks to prevent splashback, wicking, and bottom-edge rot.
7. Install the siding to manufacturer specifications for our temperature swings, including correct fasteners, nailing patterns, spacing, and expansion gaps so panels can move without buckling.
8. Seal critical transitions and finish trims so water can shed cleanly without being trapped behind caulk, decorative details, or stacked materials.

When To Call A Pro Instead Of Guessing

Homeowners should reach out when they notice any of these warning signs:

• Wavy, sagging, or buckled siding along the bottom courses
• Water stains or discoloration on interior walls below windows or rooflines
• Soft, spongy, or crumbling trim and corners, especially near decks or steps
• Siding installed tight to concrete, soil, porch floors, or steps with no clearance
• No visible housewrap or flashing discovered during previous repairs or add-ons

Catching these issues early and correcting them with a full wall-system approach like proper housewrap, accurate flashing, and level starter strips turns a quick cosmetic fix into a siding project that actually protects the home long term in Vigo County and the surrounding West-Central Indiana communities.

Frequently Asked Questions On Housewrap & Siding Flashing

Do I need housewrap under vinyl siding?

Yes. Vinyl siding is not waterproof. A continuous water-resistive barrier (housewrap) protects the sheathing and framing when wind-driven rain or melting snow gets behind the panels.

How high should siding be off the ground or concrete?

Typically 1–2 inches above concrete, patios, and decks, and higher above soil or mulch. Proper clearance prevents splashback, wicking, insect damage, and freeze–thaw damage at the bottom edge.

Why does my siding look wavy or buckled along the bottom?

Wavy or buckled siding is usually caused by an unlevel starter strip, incorrect nailing, or siding run too tight to concrete or soil. It’s often an installation problem, not a product defect.

What is kick-out flashing and why does it matter?

Kick-out flashing is a small metal piece where a roof slope meets a wall. It diverts water into the gutter instead of behind the siding. Without it, that corner can rot, grow mold, and quietly damage framing.

Can new siding be installed over my old siding?

Sometimes, but it’s rarely the best long-term option. You can’t fully inspect for hidden damage, install continuous housewrap, or integrate modern flashing. A full tear-off is the better approach if you want a durable, low-maintenance exterior.

How do I know if my siding issues are serious enough to call a pro?

If you see sagging panels, recurring caulk cracks, water stains inside, soft trim, or siding tight to patios, steps, or soil, it’s time to have the wall system checked. Catching problems early can turn a hidden moisture issue into a clean repair instead of a major rebuild.

Need further assistance?

Unsure about something? Get in touch with us for a personalized consultation.

Engage in a chat