• Door jambs and thresholds, especially older weatherstripping that’s flattened
• Window interior trim and meeting rails where paint/caulk has cracked
• Attic hatch perimeters and pull-down stairs
• Plumbing, cable, and dryer penetrations through walls and floors
• Rim joists in the basement or crawl space
• Garage-to-house door (often missing a proper sweep and gasketing)

• Tissue test at door/window edges on a breezy day; flutter = leak
• Flashlight test at night with a helper outside; light bleed = gap
• Hand test after sunset; feel for cool air at trim and outlets
• Incense/smoke pencil near suspect joints; smoke drift = air movement

1. Remove old, cracked weatherstripping; clean the surface with alcohol
2. Install new compression weatherstripping sized to your gap
3. Add an adjustable aluminum door sweep; set it to just kiss the threshold
4. Run high-quality paintable caulk along interior trim cracks; tool it smooth
5. Foam bigger penetrations with low-expansion can foam; trim flush after cure
6. Gasket the attic hatch and add a rigid, insulated cover or box

• Compression weatherstripping and adjustable door sweep
• High-quality silicone/acrylic-latex caulk and caulk gun
• Low-expansion foam for larger gaps
• Utility knife, painter’s tool, and alcohol wipes for prep
• Tape measure and screwdriver for hardware adjustments
• Attic hatch gasket and insulated cover kit

• Over-foaming gaps so the door or window binds
• Using interior caulk on exterior joints or vice versa
• Skipping the attic hatch, which leaks like a “big open vent”
• Forgetting the garage-to-house door, a major comfort leak

Most doors and a couple of drafty windows can be sealed in 1–2 hours with $30–$80 in materials. Adding an attic hatch gasket and cover typically runs $50–$150 in materials and pays back quickly in comfort.

• Persistent drafts after basic weatherstripping and caulking
• Ice-cold second floor or rooms over a garage despite normal heating
• Noticeable gaps at rim joists or complex penetrations needing spray foam detail
• You want a blower-door test and thermal imaging to pinpoint leaks precisely

• Recessed lights and fan housings (older can lights and bath fans)
• Electrical and plumbing chases that run from basement to attic
• Wall top plates where drywall meets framing
• Attic hatch or pull-down stair perimeter and lid
• Flues and chimneys (require non-combustible sealing materials)
• Duct boots where ceiling registers meet drywall

1. Map leaks with a flashlight; look for dirty or wind-streaked insulation near gaps
2. Box or cover recessed lights/fans with fire-rated covers; seal seams with approved tape/foam
3. Seal top plates, wire holes, and pipe penetrations with foam or caulk as appropriate
4. Wrap and collar bath fan ducts; vent them outdoors with a tight hood, not into the attic
5. Install baffles at soffits to keep air channels open before adding insulation
6. Add insulation to target depth; install a gasketed, insulated hatch or stair cover

• Low-expansion spray foam and high-quality sealant
• Fire-rated light/fan covers and foil or butyl tape
• Mineral wool or sheet-metal flashing + fire-rated sealant for chimney gaps
• Soffit baffles and mechanical fasteners
• Insulated attic hatch/pull-down stair cover kit with compressible gasket
• Tape measure, utility knife, respirator, gloves, headlamp, kneeboards

Adding insulation without air-sealing first (locks leaks under fluff)

Blocking soffit vents with new insulation (kills ventilation, invites ice dams)

Venting bath fans into the attic (drives moisture and frost)

Using combustible foam near flues or hot fixtures (use fire-rated methods)

A focused DIY air-seal on a typical attic runs half a day to a day in prep and sealing, plus time for insulation. Materials for sealing often land in the $75–$250 range; insulation cost varies by area and type.

• Persistent upstairs cold spots after sealing obvious leaks
• Complex cathedral ceilings, knee walls, or hard-to-reach chases
• Evidence of chronic moisture (mold, wet sheathing) or past ice-dam damage
• You want blower-door testing and thermal imaging to pinpoint hidden bypasses

1. Identify exposed or exterior-wall runs; note any nearby drafts
2. Add foam sleeves (tight fit, taped seams) along all accessible lines
3. Install faucet covers outside; shut off and drain bibs from interior valves
4. Seal cold-air leaks (foam/caulk around vents, wire holes, and rim joists)
5. Apply thermostat-controlled heat tape only where allowed; route to GFCI
6. Tag the main shutoff and test it; post a printed “water off” checklist

1. Garage or unheated utility rooms (especially near overhead doors)
2. Crawl spaces and rim joists against exterior walls
3. Kitchen/bath sinks on exterior walls (short runs through cold cavities)
4. Laundry lines near vents or poorly sealed dryer ducts
5. Outdoor hose bibs and sillcocks without interior shutoffs
6. Any pipe near vents, gaps, or recessed lights that leak cold air

• Closed-cell foam pipe insulation (match pipe diameter)
• UL-listed heat tape with built-in thermostat (as specified)
• Exterior faucet covers and interior shutoff tags
• Low-expansion foam and quality sealant for air leaks
• Utility knife, foil or vinyl tape, zip ties
• Bright shutoff tag and a permanent marker

• Wrapping heat tape over itself or under insulation against instructions
• Leaving hose bibs pressurized (no shutoff, no drain-down)
• Insulating pipes but ignoring the cold draft next to them
• Plugging heat tape into a non-GFCI outlet

Most homes can insulate key runs and seal obvious drafts in 1–3 hours. Typical materials: $25–$100 for sleeves and covers; $30–$80 per run for heat tape where needed.

• No interior shutoff for hose bibs or a seized main shutoff
• Persistent freezes in a specific wall or crawl space despite insulation
• Evidence of past bursts, leaks, or mold in hidden cavities
• Need for rerouting lines, adding shutoffs, or upgrading sillcocks

• Gutters packed with leaves near valleys and over porches
• Downspouts that dump at the base of the wall with no extensions
• Settled backfill along foundations that now slopes toward the house
• Short splash blocks that splash water onto walks and stairs
• Downhill lots where neighbor runoff crosses your yard
• Sump discharge lines that freeze or dump too close to the house

• Flush gutters and downspouts; verify each downspout runs free to grade
• Add 6–10 ft downspout extensions (flex or solid) to move water away
• Regrade low spots with compacted soil so surface water flows off the house
• Redirect walkway and patio edges so they don’t channel water to entries
• Test the sump pump: lift the float, confirm discharge is clear and daylighted
• Mark winter plow paths so extensions and discharge lines aren’t crushed

• Gutter scoop, hose with nozzle, and a safe ladder setup
• Downspout elbows and 6–10 ft extensions (flexible or corrugated)
• Heavy-duty splash blocks or diverters
• Topsoil for spot regrading and a tamper for compaction
• Sump check valve (if needed) and heat cable for exposed discharge sections
• Work gloves, eye protection, and a helper for ladder safety

• Pointing extensions across sidewalks where they refreeze into ice sheets
• Letting insulation block soffit inlets while cleaning gutters (kills ventilation)
• Ending sump discharge right at the foundation or into a window well
• Using short splash blocks instead of true extensions on problem corners

Most homes can handle gutter cleaning and extensions in 1–3 hours. Expect roughly $20–$60 per downspout for extensions and elbows; spot regrading varies by area size but often starts under a couple hundred dollars for DIY soil and tamping.

• Chronic damp basement walls or a history of seepage
• Settled slabs or grading challenges that need equipment
• Sump lines that freeze or backflow in severe cold
• Need for French drains, yard swales, or hardscape rework

• Clogged or high-MERV filters that choke airflow
• Dirty flame sensor or heat exchanger reducing safe operation
• Blocked return grills behind furniture or rugs
• Leaky or uninsulated ducts in attics/crawl spaces
• Misprogrammed thermostats fighting your schedule
• Condensate drains on high-efficiency furnaces partially blocked

1. Book a tune-up: combustion check, flame sensor clean, heat-exchanger inspection, blower and inducer check
2. Replace the filter (right size/MERV); set a reminder cadence (30–90 days)
3. Vacuum return grills and confirm all supply registers are open and unobstructed
4. Verify condensate drain is clear; add tablets if recommended to reduce slime buildup
5. Program the thermostat: modest setbacks (e.g., 2–4°F) for wake/away/evening/sleep
6. Walk the house: note rooms over the garage or far runs; balance registers slightly to even temps

• Correct-size furnace filter (appropriate MERV for your system)
• Thermostat batteries (if applicable)
• Small level and screwdriver for thermostat mounting/terminals
• Wet/dry vacuum for returns and condensate cleaning
• Condensate tablets (as recommended)
• Phone reminder or calendar for filter/tune-up cadence

• Using an ultra-high MERV filter your blower can’t handle (starves airflow)
• Closing supply registers to “push heat elsewhere” (raises static pressure, wastes energy)
• Over-aggressive setbacks that never recover on cold days
• Skipping CO alarm replacement after 7 years (sensors age out)

A pro tune-up typically takes under an hour; local pricing varies but is far cheaper than an emergency call. Filters run a few to a few dozen dollars each depending on size/MERV; most homes spend <$100 to get winter-ready.

• Frequent short-cycling, odd smells, or visible burner roll-out
• Uneven heating that persists after basic airflow checks
• Old thermostat with unreliable scheduling or dead display
• Suspected duct leaks in attic/crawl that need sealing or insulation

• Above bathrooms and kitchens with leaky fan ducts or warm chases
• Along cathedral ceilings and knee walls with thin or interrupted insulation
• At unsealed attic hatches and pull-down stairs
• Around recessed lights and can fixtures that leak heat
• Over additions where framing transitions create voids
• Near chimneys and flues with gaps that weren’t sealed using fire-safe methods

1. Scan the attic on a cold morning for nail frost or damp sheathing (telltale leaks)
2. Seal penetrations (light boxes, top plates, wiring/pipe chases) with foam/caulk
3. Gasket and insulate the attic hatch or stair cover; weatherstrip the trim
4. Correct bath fan ducting: smooth, insulated run to an exterior hood (not into the attic)
5. Add insulation to target depth; install soffit baffles to maintain airflow
6. After storms, roof-rake the lower roof from the ground to relieve the eaves

• Low-expansion spray foam and high-quality sealant
• Soffit baffles and mechanical fasteners
• Insulated attic hatch/pull-down stair cover with compressible gasket
• Insulated, smooth bath-fan duct and exterior vent hood with damper
• Blown-in or batt insulation to reach target R-value
• Lightweight roof rake with extension handle (ground use only)

• Adding insulation without air-sealing first (leaks remain under the fluff)
• Blocking soffit inlets with new insulation (kills ventilation, worsens ice dams)
• Venting bath fans into the attic or soffit cavity (loads moisture and heat)
• Using heat cables as a “fix” instead of addressing attic bypasses

Air-sealing targeted penetrations often takes a few hours and $75–$250 in materials. Insulation cost varies by area and type. A roof rake is a modest one-time buy and pays off during big snow events.

• Repeated ceiling stains or history of winter leaks
• Complex rooflines, cathedral ceilings, or inaccessible knee walls
• Persistent attic frost or visible mold on sheathing
• Need for blower-door testing and thermal imaging to find hidden bypasses

• Porch and stoop landings with smooth concrete or composite decking
• First and last stair treads (where footing changes)
• Handrail posts and brackets that loosen over time
• Side doors used for trash cans or pets (often poorly lit)
• Walkway dips that collect meltwater and refreeze at night
• Garages where wet cars drip onto sloped, slick floors

• Swap bulbs for brighter, outdoor-rated LEDs; add a motion sensor at side/rear doors
• Place heavy, non-slip mats inside and outside each entry; add stair tread strips where needed
• Tighten rail brackets and lag new anchors into solid framing if any wobble remains
• Keep a bucket of de-icer and a shovel right at the high-use door; treat thin glaze early
• Broom off powder snow promptly so it doesn’t compact into ice on stoops and steps
• Squeegee garage meltwater toward a drain or outside to reduce overnight slick spots

• Outdoor-rated LED bulbs (bright, 3000–4000K), motion sensor or dusk-to-dawn adapters
• Heavy, beveled-edge entry mats and stair tread grip strips
• Exterior-grade screws/lag bolts and a driver for rail hardware
• Calcium or magnesium chloride de-icer (concrete-friendly; pet-safe formulas available)
• Sturdy snow shovel and a floor squeegee for garages
• Small storage bin or hook near the door for “grab-and-go” tools

• Using slick decorative mats without rubber backing
• Treating with rock salt that pits concrete and harms nearby plants/pets
• Ignoring a wobbly rail—it worsens and fails when you need it most
• Relying on a single dim fixture when a motion-activated light would cover the approach

Most entry upgrades take 30–90 minutes per door. Expect roughly $15–$30 per bulb, $20–$50 per mat, $10–$25 for tread strips, and $15–$30 for a bag of de-icer.

• Loose rails/posts that need new blocking or code-compliant anchoring
• Cracked or heaved steps/stoops that hold water and refreeze
• Electrical issues (no power at exterior fixtures, failing motion sensors)
• Drainage problems funneling water toward entries

• Interior trim joints at older windows where caulk has hairline cracks
• Meeting rails and lock points on double-hung sashes
• Door bottoms where worn sweeps no longer meet the threshold
• French/slider doors at the interlock and fixed-panel edge
• Garage overhead door bottom seal and side jamb weatherstrips
• Pet doors or mail slots with loose flaps and gaps

• Do a quick tissue or incense test around suspect frames and meeting rails
• Cut out failed caulk; run a clean bead of paintable acrylic-latex along interior trim and tool it smooth
• Install a clear window film kit on the single worst window; shrink tight with a hair dryer
• Replace door sweeps; adjust thresholds so the sweep just kisses the sill without dragging
• Add or replace compression weatherstripping at the latch side and head jamb
• For garage doors, swap the bottom bulb seal and tune side/top weatherstrips to close daylight

• Paintable acrylic-latex caulk and a caulk gun
• Clear window film kit with double-sided tape
• Adjustable door sweep and replacement threshold screws
• Compression weatherstripping (adhesive or kerf-insert)
• Garage door bottom bulb seal and side/top vinyl weatherstrips
• Utility knife, painter’s tool, tape measure, hair dryer, screwdriver/driver

• Caulking over dirty, glossy trim without scuffing or cleaning first
• Setting door sweeps too low so they drag and wear out quickly
• Ignoring the latch-side gap; only sealing the hinge side does little
• Skipping the garage because it’s “unconditioned” (it still chills adjacent rooms)

Most door sweep and weatherstrip refreshes take 20–40 minutes per door. A film kit on a problem window is typically under an hour. Expect $10–$30 for caulk and tools, $15–$35 per sweep, $12–$25 for a film kit, and $20–$50 for a garage bottom seal.

• Persistent condensation or mold around frames hinting at hidden moisture issues
• Rot at sills or jambs that needs carpentry repair
• Sagging doors that won’t align even after hinge and threshold adjustments
• Multiple failed IGUs (fogged double-panes) requiring sash or unit replacement

• Overhead door bottom bulb that no longer touches the slab
• Side/top door jamb weatherstrips with gaps or hardened vinyl
• Service door missing a sweep or with a warped threshold
• Exposed plumbing along exterior walls or near vented areas
• Sheds/outbuildings with hose bibs or shallow lines
• Generator storage areas without clear, outdoor operating space

1. Seal the overhead door: swap the bottom bulb (T- or circular type to match track) and adjust tracks so side/top weatherstrips just kiss the door
2. Fix the service door: install a compression weatherstrip set and an adjustable sweep; level the threshold for a tight seal
3. Insulate plumbing runs: add foam sleeves, tape seams, and seal nearby wall/floor gaps that blow cold air onto pipes
4. Manage meltwater: squeegee snowmelt toward a drain or outside; keep floor dry to cut overnight ice and humidity
5. Protect valuables/chemicals: move paints/finishes and adhesives to a temperature-safe spot; protect batteries from freezing
6. Generator safety check: confirm outdoor operating location (never in garage), test cords, and identify a GFCI-protected outlet path

• Overhead door bottom bulb seal and side/top weatherstrip (vinyl/brush)
• Compression weatherstripping kit and adjustable door sweep for service door
• Closed-cell foam pipe insulation (match pipe diameter) and foil/vinyl tape
• Low-expansion foam/caulk for rim-joist and utility penetrations
• Floor squeegee, absorbent mats, and a bucket for meltwater control
• Outdoor-rated extension cords, GFCI outlets, and generator owner’s manual

• Replacing the bulb seal with the wrong T-width or profile (leaves daylight)
• Setting the sweep too low so it drags and tears quickly
• Insulating pipes but ignoring the cold draft blowing on them
• Running a generator in the garage with the door cracked (CO hazard—never do this)

Most garages can be sealed in 1–3 hours. Expect ~$20–$50 for a bottom bulb seal, $20–$40 for side/top weatherstrips, $15–$35 for a quality sweep, and $25–$75 for pipe sleeves and sealants. Outbuilding hose bib covers cost only a few dollars each.

• Overhead door won’t align or seal after track/roller adjustments
• Repeated pipe freezes in a specific bay or rim-joist area
• Need to add shutoffs, reroute lines, or insulate hard-to-reach runs
• Electrical upgrades for generator interlocks, transfer switches, or exterior outlets

• Furnace filters (the correct size) and CO/smoke detector batteries
• Two flashlights + extra batteries, plus a small lantern for hands-free light
• Warm blankets and basic first-aid supplies
• De-icer and an entryway shovel or scoop
• Phone chargers (including a car charger)
• Printed contacts: utility emergency numbers, plumber/GC, electrician, HVAC
• A laminated “How to shut off water/gas/power” card with simple steps
• Zip bag with photos of equipment labels and your breaker panel map

1. Make a one-page contacts + shutoffs sheet; print two copies (kitchen + utility room)
2. Photograph labels on the furnace, water heater, and major appliances; save to cloud + print
3. Replace detector batteries; test CO/smoke alarms and note dates on the devices
4. Stage flashlights at two locations (bedroom + main living area) and one small lantern
5. Put de-icer, shovel, and mats by the door you actually use in winter
6. Add a calendar reminder to rotate filters/batteries every 90 days

• Correct-size furnace filters and AA/9V batteries
• Two LED flashlights and a small LED lantern
• De-icer (concrete-friendly) and a compact shovel
• Zip bag or folder for printed docs and photos
• Permanent marker and bright shutoff tags
• Phone car charger and/or small battery bank

• Stashing the kit in a hard-to-reach closet (put it where you’ll grab it)
• Only storing numbers digitally—print them in case phones die
• Skipping CO/smoke tests after battery swaps
• Forgetting to label the main water shutoff and breaker that kills the furnace

Most families can assemble a solid kit in under an hour for $40–$120 using items you already own plus a few additions (filters, batteries, de-icer, extra flashlight).

• You can’t find or operate the main shutoffs safely
• CO/smoke detectors won’t test properly or wiring looks suspicious
• Breaker panel labeling is wrong or incomplete
• You want a whole-home generator, transfer switch, or sump backup installed