TL;DR — Terre Haute, Indiana Deck Codes

Most attached/elevated decks in Terre Haute, Indiana need a permit with footing and final inspections. Design for 40 psf live + 10 psf dead load, keep a continuous load path, and set footings below frost depth (≈36–42 in.). No ledgers on brick veneer, build freestanding or attach only to a structural rim or solid masonry with proper flashing (membrane + Z-flashing) and lateral tension ties. Guards: 36 in high over 30 in—<4 in openings; stairs: 7-3/4 in max riser, 10 in min tread, 34–38 in graspable handrail, 6′-8″ headroom. Electrical: WR-TR receptacles on GFCI, extra-duty in-use covers, damp/wet-rated fixtures. Verify the currently adopted IRC (R507) and any local amendments before you build.

Need a turnkey pro? See our deck builders page for permit-ready plans, frost-depth footings, and code-right installs.

Permits and plan review in Terre Haute, Indiana

Most decks in Terre Haute, Indiana need a building permit, especially when the walking surface is 30 inches or more above grade, the deck is attached to the house, or you’re adding a roofed element (pergola, louvered roof, polycarbonate “clear roof”) or any electrical. Expect a plan review and at least two inspections for footings and final with a framing or rough electrical check when applicable.

What triggers a deck permit (quick checklist)

• Walking surface ≥30 inches above grade at any point
• Attachment to the dwelling (ledger connection) or structural changes to an existing deck
• Roofed structures over the deck (pergola with rafters/purlins, louvered roof, under-deck ceiling tied to framing)
• New circuits, lighting, receptacles, or a damp-rated ceiling fan (GFCI, in-use covers)

What to include in your plan set for faster approval

• Site plan showing property lines, zoning setbacks, easements, utilities, and overall deck dimensions with distance to grade
• Framing plan with joist size/spacing, species/grade, beam and post layout, and the ledger detail (through-bolts/structural screws, flashing, lateral load connectors)
• Footing schedule listing depth and diameter (below frost line—often 36–42 inches), pier spacing, and any post base/uplift hardware
• Connection schedule for hangers, post caps/bases, knee/diagonal bracing, and the continuous load path to foundations
• Guards, stairs, and handrails noting guard height 36 in, baluster openings <4 in, stair riser max 7-3/4 in, tread depth ≥10 in, and graspable handrail 34–38 in
• Electrical notes for GFCI-protected receptacles/lighting, wet-location boxes with in-use covers, bonding/grounding of any metal structure, and circuit sizing
• Materials & corrosion control specifying pressure-treated or cedar framing where required, hot-dip galvanized G-185 or stainless connectors/fasteners, and compatible decking fasteners (composite/PVC specs if used)
• Water management at the house tie-in (ledger flashing, kick-out flashing near walls/doors) and any under-deck drainage slope to a gutter/downspout

Inspections you should plan for

• Footing inspection before concrete placement to verify depth, diameter, and layout
• Framing/rough electrical where applicable to check connections, hangers, lateral ties, and box placement/conduit runs
• Final inspection to verify guards/handrails, stair geometry, clearances, fastener patterns, electrical GFCI/in-use covers, and overall compliance
• Zoning/HOA sign-off if required for setbacks, height, and appearance

Quick wins to speed approvals

• Name the IRC deck section (R507) and the adopted code edition on the title sheet
• Attach manufacturer cut sheets for hangers, lateral load connectors, and any louvered roof system
• Call out the frost depth (36–42 inches) and show footing details in section with notes on undisturbed soil bearing
• Add a bold note to call 811 before digging and to maintain drip edge/ledger flashing for water control

Structural basics you must get right

Indiana’s freeze–thaw, wind, and rain demand a stiff, well-anchored deck with a continuous load path from decking to soil. For typical one and two family homes, design is commonly based on 40 psf live load + 10 psf dead load (verify the adopted IRC edition and local amendments). Use code-listed connectors and follow lumber/composite deck manufacturer instructions for spans, fasteners, and gaps.

Core specs for Terre Haute / Vigo County

• Footings bear on undisturbed soil below frost depth (about 36–42 in.)
• 6×6 posts on most taller or roofed decks; set on post bases with uplift resistance
• Beams on top of posts (notched or with caps) for a continuous load path
• Joists sized from species/grade span tables; control bounce with L/360 deflection
• Hot-dip galvanized G-185 or stainless connectors/fasteners with treated lumber
• Diagonal/knee bracing on taller decks and windy sites to limit racking

Posts, beams, and connections

• Use concrete piers sized to tributary loads; add post-to-footing uplift anchors and post caps to transfer shear and moment
• Align built-up beams over posts; stagger splices and place them directly over supports
• Avoid excessive post notching; where notched, keep bearing full and protect remaining section from overstress
• Specify rated hardware (post bases, caps, hangers, angle ties) and install full nail/fastener patterns with the correct diameters and lengths

Joists and decking

• Select joist size/spacing from span tables (often 12–16 in. o.c.; 24 in. only if the decking allows)
• Cantilever joists ≤ 1/4 of the backspan unless a table/manufacturer allows otherwise
• Add solid blocking at supports, over beams, and at guard post locations to resist roll and uplift
• Follow composite/PVC gapping and fastener specs; keep screws compatible with treatment and connectors to prevent galvanic corrosion

Lateral and uplift control

• Install lateral load devices/tension ties at the ledger (when attached) per the IRC to resist deck pull-away
• Use hurricane ties/rafter ties where a roofed structure or pergola bears on the deck frame
• Add knee braces or diagonal struts between posts and beams on taller decks and wind-exposed sites
• Provide a clear load path: decking → joists → beams → posts → anchors → footings → soil

Quick wins for plans/inspections

• Call out design loads (40/10 psf) and deflection limit L/360 on the title sheet
• Show a footing section with frost depth (36–42 in.), diameter, and undisturbed soil note
• Detail beam-over-post with cap/through-bolts and a note prohibiting face-screwed deck boards as primary shear transfer
• Specify connector brands/models or ICC-ES reports, fastener types, and corrosion class (G-185/stainless)
• Note lateral ties at the ledger, guard post blocking, and any knee bracing elevations
• Include a fastener schedule (screws/bolts diameters, spacing, edge distances) to speed approvals

Footings and foundations in Terre Haute/Vigo County

Deck footings carry every pound of your deck into the ground, so sizing and soil contact are make-or-break. In Vigo County, plan to extend below frost depth (about 36–42 inches) and bear on undisturbed native soil. Size pier diameter to the tributary area above each post, and assume a conservative soil bearing of ~1,500 psf unless your inspector or a geotech specifies otherwise. Keep a continuous load path: post base → pier → soil, with uplift resistance for wind.

Core requirements

• Depth: Extend below the local frost line (~36–42 in.) and to undisturbed soil; no fill under piers
• Diameter: Increase sonotube size as tributary area grows; larger spans/beams require wider piers
• Connection: Use rated post-to-base anchors with uplift resistance; avoid burying wood in concrete
• Stairs/landings: Provide separate footings for stair posts and landing pads; keep treads on stable support
• Soil variability: If soils are soft or wet, bell the footing (enlarged base) or upgrade to helical piles
• Protection: Keep pier tops above grade, slope the top for drainage, and isolate from splash/backfill

Footing types that work here

• Cast-in-place cylindrical pier (sonotube): The standard; easy to inspect and size by tributary load
• Belled footing (e.g., Bigfoot-style form): Wider bearing at bottom for weak soils or heavier roofs/pergolas
• Helical piles (engineered): Great for limited access or poor soils; instant capacity with torque verification
• Precast deck footings: Use only where approved by the AHJ and sized for load; still need undisturbed support

Detailing that prevents callbacks

• Place a gravel bed under forms to avoid mud and settlement; keep holes dry and free of loose spoil
• Tie a simple rebar cage in taller piers to reduce cracking and improve post-base anchorage
• Use hot-dip galvanized (G-185) or stainless post bases/anchors with treated lumber
• Set posts centered over piers; align built-up beams directly over posts for true load transfer
• For under-deck roofs/pergolas, upsize footings and posts for roof + wind uplift (note loads on plans)
• Maintain grade clearances at siding/door thresholds; add drip edge or kick-out flashing near the house

Quick wins for plans/inspections

• Call out frost depth (36–42 in.), assumed soil bearing (≈1,500 psf), and pier diameters on the title sheet
• Show a footing section detail with undisturbed soil note, rebar, and post-base/anchor model numbers (ICC-ES)
• Identify separate stair/landing footings and any belled bases or helical pile locations
• Note uplift hardware at post bases and any knee/diagonal bracing for tall posts
• Keep a bold note to Call 811 before augering and to pump out groundwater so inspectors see clean holes
• Specify top-of-pier elevation above grade with slight slope for drainage away from posts

Ledgers and attachments to the house

Ledger connections fail more decks than any other detail. If you attach to the house, treat the ledger as a structural, waterproofed joint built to the IRC deck code (R507, local amendments) with a continuous load path, shingle-style flashing, and code-listed fasteners. When in doubt, build freestanding to avoid risky substrates like brick veneer.

Where you can and cannot attach

• Attach to: solid rim joist or band joist of the house framed in dimensional lumber or LVL (verify thickness and condition)
• Attach to: solid concrete or fully grouted CMU with approved anchors and a continuous flashing detail
• Do not attach to: brick veneer or stone veneer alone; build freestanding tight to the house instead
• Do not attach to: cantilevered bays, overhangs, or deteriorated / unknown framing; open and verify structure first
• Prep first: strip siding where the ledger lands so it bears directly on structure (not on sheathing only)
• Protect around doors: keep ledger and flashing below thresholds; maintain code clearances to prevent water intrusion

Fasteners and spacing that pass inspection

• Use through-bolts or ICC-ES–listed structural screws sized and spaced per the adopted code tables for your joist span
• Stagger the pattern vertically to reduce splitting; respect edge and end distances in the table and hardware specs
• Use full-size washers under nut/bolt heads; tighten to “snug-tight” and recheck after initial wood shrinkage
• No nails alone for ledger attachment; and don’t rely on lag bolts unless the model is specifically rated and installed by table
• Pre-drill old/hard rims as needed to maintain spacing accuracy and prevent splitting
• Keep a 3/8–1/2 in. drainage gap behind claddings with stand-off spacers when allowed, while preserving flashing continuity

Flashing and water management (stop rot before it starts)

• Shingle-style sequence: WRB behind siding → self-adhered flashing membrane at the wall → ledger → metal Z-flashing/drip cap over the ledger → siding counterflash
• Extend flashing past ledger ends with end-dams; add kick-out flashing where roofs or walls dump water near the deck
• Use corrosion-resistant flashing (painted galvanized, aluminum isolated from ACQ, or stainless) compatible with your materials
• Slope the top flashing slightly out; cut a drip kerf on exposed edges to prevent backflow against siding/doors
• Seal penetrations with compatible sealant; never trap water against door thresholds or sills
• Pair ledger flashing with under-sill flashing above and drip edges so runoff doesn’t stain or infiltrate the wall

Lateral load and uplift control

• Install the required lateral load devices / tension ties at the ledger to resist deck pull-away (per IRC tables and local amendments)
• Tie joists to the ledger with full nail patterns in rated hangers; add joist blocking near the ledger to spread railing and diaphragm loads
• Use hurricane ties/hold-downs where a pergola or roof bears on deck framing, creating uplift loads
• Ensure a continuous load path: decking → joists → hangers → ledger → house framing and joists → beams → posts → anchors → footings

Hangers, blocking, and compatible hardware

• Select joist hangers that match joist size and preservative treatment; install every nail the hanger calls for
• Add solid blocking at guard post locations and over support beams to prevent joist roll and to stiffen rail connections
• Use hot-dip galvanized G-185 or stainless connectors/fasteners with modern treated lumber to prevent corrosion
• Keep dissimilar metals separated; match screw/connector coatings to avoid galvanic reactions

When to go freestanding instead of ledger-attached

• House wall is brick/stone veneer, stucco/EIFS, or unknown framing condition
• Interior finishes make verification or flashing impossible without major demo
• Ledger attachment would violate door/window clearances or trap water at thresholds
• Deck supports heavy shade structures (louvered roof, clear roof) and you prefer to isolate those loads
• Existing house rim shows rot, insect damage, or undersized members
• You need to keep the project moving while avoiding interior work (permits/repairs) on the house wall

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Call out “Ledger per IRC R507 (adopted edition)” on the drawings and reference the fastener spacing table by number
• Draw a ledger flashing section (WRB, membrane, ledger, Z-flashing/drip cap, siding) with a kick-out note at roof/wall junctions
• Specify fastener model numbers (ICC-ES reports) and hanger models with required nails; note G-185/stainless throughout
• Show tension-tie locations on plan and elevation; dimension edge distances and bolt patterns
• Add a bold note: “No attachment to brick veneer—freestanding deck at veneer walls.”
• Photograph ledger area pre-closure for your records and to smooth final inspection

Joists, beams, and cantilevers

Span, stiffness, and safety come from matching species/grade, spacing, and load to the right tables, then detailing connections so the frame acts as one system. In Vigo County, assume 40 psf live + 10 psf dead load unless amended, and verify the adopted IRC (R507) or an accepted guide (e.g., AWC DCA-6). Composite/PVC decking has its own spacing limits so follow the manufacturer specifications.

Joists: 6 rules for span and stiffness

• Pick the table & species first: Size joists from span tables for SYP No.2, DF-L No.2, or SPF No.2; note species on plans
• Set spacing by surface: 16″ o.c. for most layouts; 12″ o.c. for diagonal decking or many composites; 24″ o.c. only if the decking spec allows
• Control bounce: Call out L/360 deflection (or better for long spans) and add mid-span blocking rows if needed
• Seat and restrain ends: Provide solid blocking at supports and over beams to keep joists upright and transfer shear
• Double where loads concentrate: Sister/double joists under guard posts, spas, stairs, and landings per load calc
• Mind gapping & fasteners: Follow composite/PVC gap, screw angle, and pilot requirements; stay compatible with treated lumber

Beams: 6 rules for strength and load path

• Beam over post, not beside: Set beams on top of posts with caps/notches for a clean load path
• Built-up beam plies: Use full-length plies or splice directly over posts; nail/screw per schedule (and never face-screw deck boards as “shear”)
• Bearing and alignment: Provide ≥ 1.5″ bearing on caps; keep posts centered under beam lines
• Species & exposure: If using LVL, specify exterior-rated; otherwise size with SYP/DF-L built-ups and protect tops from water
• Brace tall posts: Add knee/diagonal bracing on taller frames and wind-exposed sites
• Document the beam schedule: List ply count, size, span, splice locations, and connector models on the plan

Cantilevers: 4 checkpoints that pass inspection

• Stay within limits: Keep joist cantilevers ≤ 1/4 of backspan (and within the table’s absolute max)
• Block at bearings: Install solid blocking at the support where joists cantilever to prevent roll
• Edge support for decking: Respect the decking’s overhang limit (often 1–2″) and add a rim where required
• Coordinate guards: If a guard post lands near a cantilever, upgrade blocking/hold-downs so the rail load bypasses the rim

Connection hardware: 6 non-negotiables

• Use rated hangers: Match hanger model to joist size/treatment; install the full nail pattern (no drywall screws)
• Correct fasteners: Use manufacturer-approved hanger nails/SD screws, not deck screws and rated values apply
• Corrosion class: Specify ZMAX / G-185 hot-dip galvanized or stainless for treated lumber and coastal-adjacent conditions
• Edge/end distances: Keep manufacturer minimums so connectors reach full capacity and wood doesn’t split
• Rim integrity: Fasten rims to every joist; add blocking/straps where guards, stairs, or stringers attach
• Document ICC reports: Note ICC-ES/ESR numbers for proprietary screws, hangers, and ties right on the drawings

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Call out species (SYP/DF-L/SPF), spacing (12/16″ o.c.), loads (40/10), deflection (L/360) on the title sheet
• Add a joist/beam schedule with spans, plies, splice-over-post notes, and hanger models
• Draw a cantilever detail showing blocking at the support and the decking overhang limit
• Note guard-post blocking/hold-downs and any knee bracing on elevations

Guardrails, handrails, and stairs

When a deck walking surface is more than 30 inches above grade, deck railings are required. Terre Haute and Vigo County typically follow the IRC (R312 guards, R311 stairs; check local amendments). Build for safety loads and clean detailing so inspections go smoothly and the deck feels solid.

Specs at a glance

• Guard height: 36 in minimum on residential decks
• Guard openings: under 4 in (4-in sphere rule); stair triangle opening under 6 in
• Handrail height on stairs: 34–38 in measured vertically to nosing
• Stair geometry: max riser 7-3/4 in; min tread depth 10 in; variation within 3/8 in
• Minimum stair width: 36 in clear above handrail height
• Headroom on stairways: 6 ft 8 in minimum
• Handrail clearance: 1-1/2 in from wall/guard; returns to wall or newel
• Load criteria: guards resist 200 lb concentrated load and 50 lb/lf along top rail

Guards that pass and feel solid

• Use 36 in minimum height; keep baluster spacing so a 4-in sphere cannot pass (check stair triangle at 6 in max)
• Anchor guard posts with rated hold-downs and blocking; avoid notching posts at the rim where possible
• Tie the top rail and infill to framing with a continuous load path; stiffen corners with blocking or steel angles
• Where guards land near cantilevers, add joist blocking/straps so rail loads bypass the rim to the beam
• For cable or glass guards, follow the system’s ICC-ES report for tension, spacing, and post intervals
• Use corrosion-resistant hardware (G-185 or stainless) and seal penetrations to prevent water intrusion

Handrails that are safe and graspable

• Height 34–38 in measured vertically above the tread nosings; keep it continuous on flights with 4+ risers
• Provide a graspable profile: circular 1-1/4 to 2 in diameter, or Type II equivalent with finger recess
• Maintain 1-1/2 in clear from adjacent wall/guard and 1-1/2 in clearance above any rail mount
• Return ends to a wall, newel, or safety terminal; avoid snag points at rail ends
• Mount to structure with rated brackets and through-fasteners where needed; hit blocking, not just finish
• Keep a smooth, uninterrupted path above stair nosings with consistent height through landings

Stairs that feel predictable and meet code

• Use max riser 7-3/4 in and min tread depth 10 in; keep variation within 3/8 in across the flight
• Provide 36 in clear width above the handrail; verify egress and door swing clearances at landings
• Maintain 6 ft 8 in headroom minimum measured vertically from nosing line
• Limit open riser gaps to less than 4 in where the stair is more than 30 in above grade
• Add solid, level landings where required; typical exterior landings are ≥36 in in the direction of travel
• Use slip-resistant treads and visible nosings; keep water-shedding and snow/ice in mind for exteriors

Lighting, power, and durability

• Add code-right lighting on stair runs and landings; exterior fixtures must be damp/wet-location rated
• Place controls at convenient entries; use GFCI-protected circuits and in-use covers for receptacles
• Specify UV-stable finishes and stainless or G-185 hardware at all guard and stair connections
• Seal cut ends on treated lumber; maintain clear drip paths so fasteners and connections stay dry

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Call out IRC sections (R312, R311), load criteria (200 lb point, 50 lb/lf), and handrail profile on the drawings
• Detail guard-post blocking and hold-down hardware at rim/beam locations; note “no notched posts at rim” where applicable
• Show a stair section with riser/tread dimensions, handrail height/clearances, headroom, and landing size
• Specify corrosion class (G-185/stainless), fastener models, and required returns on handrails

Decking, materials, and corrosion control

Indiana humidity, UV, and freeze–thaw cycles are tough on decks. Longevity comes from picking the right deck board materials (wood, composite, or PVC), following manufacturer specs, and matching all connectors/fasteners and flashing so you avoid rot and galvanic corrosion. Keep airflow, drainage, and compatible metals front and center.

Wood decking & framing: right product, right prep

• Use pressure-treated lumber with the correct retention: UC4A “ground contact” for framing close to grade and UC4B for posts embedded/at soil, with KDAT deck boards if you want reduced shrink/swell
• Seal all cut ends of treated lumber with a compatible end-grain sealer; pre-drill near board ends to prevent splits
• Apply butyl/bituminous joist-top tape on beam/joist crowns to slow fastener rot and moisture wicking; don’t wrap sides (avoid trapping water)
• Maintain board gaps ~1/8–1/4 in based on moisture content and species; keep ventilation space under the deck per manufacturer (more clearance for wood near grade)
• Choose #1 or better for visible deck boards; keep pith side down when possible and reject boards with large edge checks or bark inclusions
• Keep drip paths: slope away from the house, add drip edges at ledgers and landings, and avoid running boards tight to siding or thresholds

Composite/PVC decking: follow the book for warranty

• Set joist spacing by brand and orientation: commonly 16″ o.c. (perpendicular), 12″ o.c. for diagonals and stairs at 12″ o.c.
• Respect thermal movement: use the brand’s end-to-end and side gaps by temperature at install; slot or oversize holes where required (especially for fascia)
• Use the specified hidden fastener or stainless deck screws approved by the manufacturer; pre-drill near board ends and never mix unapproved screws with a given system
• Provide ventilation clearance beneath boards and avoid fully enclosed cavities; many brands require cross-ventilation to prevent cupping and odor
• Manage heat and UV: lighter colors run cooler on west/south exposures; note that low-E window reflections can overheat PVC/composites so use screens or awnings if needed
• Follow fascia fastening patterns (often slot/oversize plus specific screw spacing) to prevent oil-canning
• Match deck cleaner/maintenance to the product (no solvents or wire brushes on capped composites/PVC)
• Save the install guide and lot labels in your file; warranties depend on documented, spec-compliant installation

Fasteners, connectors, and flashing: corrosion control

• Specify hot-dip galvanized G-185/ZMAX connectors and stainless steel (304/316) fasteners in critical/wet or salt-exposed areas (driveway de-icing splash, pools, fountains)
• Use polymer-coated or stainless deck screws rated for ACQ/CA treated lumber; avoid electro-galvanized or black-oxide screws that corrode early
• Match metals to avoid galvanic corrosion: isolate aluminum flashing/rail parts from treated wood with peel-and-stick membrane or compatible separators
• For hangers/ties, use the manufacturer’s hanger nails or structural screws (not deck screws) and install the full nail pattern for rated capacity
• Separate wood from concrete with sill/separator membranes; keep post bases above grade with uplift-rated anchors
• Keep edge/end distances per hardware specs so bolts/screws develop full strength without splitting
• Replace any rusted hardware during maintenance; photograph connections after install for your records

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• On the schedule, state: “Connectors: G-185/ZMAX; Fasteners: SS 304/316 or polymer-coated PT-rated.”
• Note joist spacing by orientation (16″ o.c. field, 12″ o.c. diagonal/stairs) and thermal gaps for composite/PVC by brand
• Detail the ledger flashing stack (WRB → membrane → ledger → Z-flashing → siding) and call out aluminum isolation from ACQ
• Attach the decking brand’s install cut sheets/ESR and list approved fasteners/hidden clips by model

Shade structures and roofs over decks

When you add a pergola, polycarbonate “clear roof,” or louvered pergola/roof, inspectors often treat it like a roofed addition. Plan on a permit, structural sizing for wind uplift and snow, and clear water management so your siding and deck framing stay dry. Design to a continuous load path and keep flashing shingle-style so water can’t sneak behind the ledger.

Structural requirements (6 must-dos)

• Separate footings below frost: Set roof posts on their own footings below 36–42 in. frost depth; don’t rely on deck blocking alone for roof loads.
• 6×6 posts + beam-over-post: Use uplift-rated post bases/caps; place beams on top of posts (not beside) to maintain a continuous load path.
• Account for roof loads: Louvered systems add dead load and wind uplift; upsize posts/beams/footings per manufacturer spans or engineering.
• Brace against racking: Add knee/diagonal braces or moment frames on taller posts and windy sites to control sway.
• Hardware that lasts: Specify G-185/ZMAX or stainless connectors/fasteners with treated lumber; document model numbers/ICC-ES reports.
• Freestanding vs attached: Prefer freestanding near brick/stone veneer or tricky flashing conditions; if bearing on deck framing, verify joist/beam capacity and add hold-downs.

Attachment & flashing (6 details that prevent leaks)

• Attachment: If attaching to the house, follow the Ledger rules above; otherwise prefer a freestanding frame near veneer/EIFS.
• Shingle-style stack: WRB → self-adhered membrane → ledger → metal Z-flashing/drip cap → siding; extend end-dams and seal penetrations.
• Kick-out flashing: Where a roof or wall dumps water near the deck, add a kick-out to push runoff away from siding and doors.
• Maintain clearances: Keep head/door thresholds clear; cut a drip kerf on exposed edges to stop backflow.
• Isolate dissimilar metals: Separate aluminum roof pans or rails from ACQ-treated wood with membrane to avoid galvanic corrosion.
• Drainage gap: Use stand-offs or spacers to keep a small drain/air gap behind claddings while preserving flashing continuity.

Water management & roof geometry

• Slope to drainage: Pitch panels 1/4 in./ft (min 1/8 in./ft) toward a gutter or scupper; keep slopes consistent at transitions.
• Continuous gutter path: Tie gutters to downspouts that discharge to splash blocks, drains, or daylight—never onto stairs or walkways.
• Polycarbonate specifics: Install UV side out, use closure strips/sealants approved by the panel maker, and allow for thermal movement.
• Snow & debris: Choose a snow-shedding pitch, account for drifting near walls, and add debris screens where trees overhang.
• Integrate with under-deck drainage: Coordinate roof drips with any under-joist trough so water doesn’t short-circuit the system.
• Protect adjacent finishes: Add drip edges at terminations to prevent splashback onto siding, doors, and slab joints.

Quick wins for plans & inspections (6 items)

• Add a bold note: “No attachment to brick veneer—use freestanding frame.”
• Title sheet note: “Roofed deck structure designed per IRC R507 (adopted ed.), wind uplift/snow loads verified.”
• Show a footing section with frost depth 36–42 in., soil bearing, uplift anchors, and bracing locations.
• Include manufacturer cut sheets/ESR for louvered systems, panel spans, connectors, and fasteners.
• Draw a ledger flashing detail with kick-out and end-dams; call out aluminum/ACQ isolation.
• Dimension gutter/downspout discharge paths away from stairs/doors and note 1/4 in./ft slope on sections.

Electrical on or near decks

Outdoor electrical makes your deck safer and more usable, just build it to the adopted NEC (verify current edition with Terre Haute/Vigo County). Focus on GFCI protection, weather-resistant (WR) devices, in-use (“bubble”) covers, correct wiring methods, and proper bonding/grounding of any metal nearby. Add dedicated deck lighting such as LED step lights, post-cap lights, and low-glare downlights rated for damp/wet locations, aimed to illuminate treads and landings without glare, switched at primary entries (or on timers/smart controls), and fed from a GFCI-protected circuit with extra-duty in-use covers.

Requirements at a glance

• Listed wiring methods (UF-B with protection or THWN conductors in PVC) and sealed penetrations
• GFCI protection for outdoor receptacles and most outdoor outlets per the adopted NEC
• WR, tamper-resistant (TR) receptacles with extra-duty in-use covers in wet locations
• Damp/wet-location rated fixtures & fans on a properly sized circuit (15A/20A as designed)
• Bond/ground metal rails, pergola frames, and any metal likely to become energized
• Clearances from pools/spas and overhead conductors per NEC 680/225 (verify locally)

Receptacles & locations (do this right)

• Install WR-TR receptacles serving the deck; protect with GFCI (breaker or device).
• Use extra-duty in-use (“bubble”) covers so plugs stay protected while in use.
• Provide at least one conveniently located receptacle on or near each usable deck area (local adoption may require a receptacle on decks ≥20 sq ft accessible from inside, confirm with your AHJ).
• Mount boxes plumb and tight to cladding; add gasketed covers, seal the top and sides, and leave the bottom weep path open.

Lighting & ceiling fans (comfort + code)

• Choose damp-rated fixtures under cover and wet-rated where exposed; seal canopy plates and use in-use covers for any cord-connected loads.
• Block framing for a damp-rated ceiling fan; use a fan-rated box and listed support.
• Run lighting on a dedicated switch leg; keep GFCI on the receptacle branch. (Some jurisdictions extend GFCI to certain outdoor outlets, verify locally.)
• Layer light: LED step/post-cap lights for egress, downlights for task zones, and a fan for air movement.

Wiring methods & protection (clean, durable installs)

• Use UF-B cable with schedule 80 sleeve where exposed, or pull THWN/THHN conductors in PVC conduit; keep bushings, straps, and expansion couplings where sunlight/temperature swings occur.
• Maintain burial depth and support spacing per NEC; protect low runs from impact.
• Bond equipment grounds continuously back to the service; no floating boxes.
• Seal exterior penetrations with compatible sealant; flash where boxes pass through siding.

Bonding, grounding & metal near power

• Bond/ground any metal pergola, awning frame, or cable-rail system that can become energized (use listed lugs; keep connections accessible).
• Keep neutral and ground isolated where required; follow device and panel labeling (NEC 110.3(B)).

Controls & smart options (ease of use)

• Place switches at the most used entry; add 3-ways for long stair runs.
• Use timers or smart switches for evening scenes and step lights; label breakers and scenes for simple operation.
• Consider photo/motion control on egress lights so stairs are always safe after dark.

Pools, spas & overheads (clearances matter)

• Maintain NEC-required setbacks from pools/spas for receptacles and lights; use GFCI and equipotential bonding as applicable (NEC 680).
• Keep required vertical clearances from overhead conductors above decks and adjacent areas (NEC 225/680). When in doubt, reroute underground.

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Note on drawings: “Outdoor branch circuits/receptacles GFCI and WR-TR with extra-duty in-use covers; luminaires damp/wet-location rated.”
• Show a one-line with breaker sizes, GFCI/AFCI where adopted, conductor types (UF-B or THWN in PVC), and equipment grounding conductor.
• Detail a fan box (fan-rated, blocked) and a step-light circuit with switch or timer at primary entry.
• Call out bonding: any metal pergola/rail bonded to EGC with listed lugs; identify lug location.
• Dimension clearances from pools/spas and show conductor reroutes where needed.
• Specify boxes/covers: wet-location, extra-duty in-use; list fixture/fan ratings on the schedule.

Zoning, setbacks, and HOAs

Passing building code doesn’t guarantee zoning approval. Zoning controls where your deck can go, how big/tall it can be, and what it looks like in certain areas. Before you draw, confirm your zoning district, required setbacks, lot coverage/impervious limits, and any HOA or historic district rules. Many headaches (and re-draws) come from missing one of these.

What to verify first (before you design)

• Zoning district & parcel data: lot size (sq ft), zoning code, and any overlay (historic, floodplain).
• Setbacks: required front, side, and rear yard setbacks for decks and for roofed structures (often stricter).
• Lot coverage / impervious surface limits: % of lot you can cover with buildings, decks, patios, and walks.
• Height limits: overall deck height and any guard/screen height restrictions near property lines.
• Easements & utilities: utility easements, drainage swales, rights-of-way, decks/posts typically cannot encroach.
• Special lots: corner-lot vision triangles, through-lots, alleys, floodplain/floodway constraints.
• HOA / Historic: HOA architectural review requirements and, where applicable, Certificate of Appropriateness (historic district).

How to measure setbacks

• Measure from the property line, not the fence or curb. Use a current property survey (as-built or boundary) whenever possible.
• Show dimension lines from the deck edge, stairs, and post centers to each property line.
• Stairs and landings: many jurisdictions count these in setbacks dimension their projection.
• Roofed decks/pergolas: often treated as additions with larger setbacks; roof overhangs can also be regulated.
• Freestanding near the house: still needs to meet side/rear setbacks and stay out of easements.

Lot coverage & impervious surface (plan it in)

• Tally house + garage + sheds + covered decks + patios/walks against the district’s maximum lot coverage.
• Some places count open-slat decks differently than solid/roofed surfaces; others count them fully so verify locally.
• Include new walks to stairs; those square feet often push projects over the limit if forgotten.

Easements, drainage, and utilities

• No posts or footings in utility easements; surface decking over an easement is often discouraged because it blocks access.
• Keep drainage swales clear; don’t dam flow with skirting or grade changes.
• Maintain separation from meter sets, AC condensers, cleanouts, and overhead conductors; show clearances on plan.
• If you must cross a private drain, detail a removable section and get written approval.

Corner lots, driveways, and sight lines

• Respect the vision triangle at intersections and driveway aprons; tall privacy screens often can’t sit in that triangle.
• Check fence/screen height rules near front yards and corners.
• On alleys, verify setbacks from the alley right-of-way and any gate swing limits.

HOAs & historic districts

• HOA Architectural Review: submit your site plan, elevations, materials/colors, and lighting; wait for written approval.
• Historic district: some areas require a Certificate of Appropriateness for visible decks/railings; match style, materials, and colors to guidelines.

Variances & administrative adjustments (if you’re tight on space)

• If you can’t meet a setback or coverage limit, talk to zoning staff about an administrative adjustment or Board of Zoning Appeals variance.
• Expect: application, fee, neighbor notifications, and a hearing. Provide hardship rationale, not just convenience.

What to show on your site plan (to speed approvals)

• North arrow, scale, parcel lines, and right-of-way widths.
• All setbacks dashed and labeled; distance callouts from deck edges, posts, and stair/landing projections to property lines.
• Easements (utility/drainage) traced from the plat/survey; label widths.
• Lot coverage table: existing vs proposed % (house, garage, sheds, decks, patios, walks).
• Flood info (if applicable): floodplain/floodway line and finished deck elevation notes.
• Driveway/vision triangle diagram on corner lots.
• HOA/historic notes: approval date or “submitted/pending” status.

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Include the survey (or plat) as a base layer; dimension from property lines (not fences).
• Trace all easements and add a bold note: “No posts/footings in easements.”
• Dimension stair/landing projections into the rear/side yards; note compliance.
• Corner lots: draw the vision triangle with heights labeled for any screens/railings.
• Attach HOA/historic approvals (or note “pending”) to avoid administrative holds.

Common red flags that delay approval

These are the fastest ways to earn a correction notice. Each item below includes the fix inspectors expect so you can pass the first time.

• Ledger on brick veneer / poor flashing
  Never attach to veneer. Fasten the ledger to a structural rim or solid masonry only, with self-adhered membrane + metal Z-flashing/drip cap in shingle sequence. If the wall is brick/stone veneer, build freestanding tight to the house.
• Footings too small or too shallow
  Piers must bear on undisturbed soil below frost depth (≈36–42 in.) and be sized to the tributary area. Bell the base or upsize diameter for weak soils; show depth/diameter on the plan.
• Missing lateral ties, post bases, or load path breaks
  Provide tension ties at the ledger (IRC R507), uplift-rated post bases/caps, and a continuous load path (decking → joists → beams → posts → anchors → footings → soil).
• Guard posts screwed to the rim only
  Don’t rely on deck screws. Use rated hold-downs/through-bolts + blocking to transfer the 200-lb point load into joists/beams. Avoid notching posts at the rim where possible.
• Out-of-tolerance stairs
  Keep max riser 7-3/4 in, min tread 10 in, ≤3/8 in variation. Provide graspable handrail 34–38 in with returns, 1-1/2 in clearance, and headroom 6 ft 8 in. Limit open riser gaps to <4 in.
• Wrong fasteners/connectors for treated lumber
  Specify hot-dip galvanized G-185/ZMAX or stainless (304/316) for connectors and screws. Avoid electro-galv/black oxide. Match coatings to hangers to prevent galvanic corrosion.
• Electrical without GFCI or in-use covers
  Exterior receptacles and most outdoor outlets need GFCI, WR-TR devices, and extra-duty in-use covers. Use damp/wet-location fixtures and a properly sized branch circuit.
• Tall posts without bracing (sway/racking)
  Add knee/diagonal bracing or moment frames on tall/wind-exposed decks. Where shade roofs/louvered systems attach, check uplift and upsize posts/footings accordingly.

Quick wins for plans & inspections

• Title sheet notes: “Frost depth 36–42 in,” “Design loads 40/10 psf,” “IRC R507 ledger/ties,” “Hardware G-185/Stainless.”
• Details that matter: Ledger flashing section (WRB → membrane → ledger → Z-flashing → siding) with kick-out and end-dams; guard-post blocking/hold-down detail; stair section with riser/tread/handrail callouts.
• Schedules: Joist/beam schedule with spans and splice-over-post notes; fastener schedule (bolt diameters, spacing, edge distances).
• Footings: Section showing diameter, depth, rebar, uplift anchor on undisturbed soil; separate stair/landing footings.
• Electrical: One-line showing GFCI, WR-TR, in-use covers, wiring method (UF-B or THWN in PVC), and bonding of any metal pergola/rails.

Simple path to a code-right deck

Here’s a fast, inspector-friendly workflow you can follow from sketch to final. It bakes in local realities, IRC deck code (R507), frost depth 36–42 in., and a continuous load path so you pass plan review and inspections the first time.

1) Sketch & measure (site plan first)

• Map house walls, doors/windows, property lines, setbacks, easements, and visible utilities; add a north arrow and scale.
• Dimension deck edges, post centers, stair/landing projections, and grade changes.
• Quick win: Base your layout on a current survey and include a tiny lot-coverage table (existing vs. proposed).
• LSI: zoning setbacks, parcel survey, easements, lot coverage, site plan.

2) Choose structure & spans

• Decide freestanding vs. ledger-attached; if the wall is brick veneer, plan freestanding tight to the house.
• Size joists/beams from tables for your species/grade (SYP, DF-L, SPF); design loads 40 psf live + 10 psf dead, L/360 deflection.
• Quick win: Title sheet note: “Design per IRC R507 (adopted ed.) — 40/10 psf, L/360.”
• LSI: joist span table, built-up beam, continuous load path, Vigo County deck code.

3) Schedule footings & soil contact

• Footings below frost (≈36–42 in.), sized by tributary area; assume 1,500 psf soil unless directed otherwise.
• Use uplift-rated post bases; provide separate stair/landing footings. Consider belled piers or helical piles for weak soils.
• Quick win: Call out frost depth on plans and Call 811 before augering. Draw a footing section with rebar and anchor model.
• LSI: sonotube, belled footing, helical piles, undisturbed native soil, tributary load.

4) Detail the house connection & water control

• No attachment to brick veneer, use freestanding frame.
• If attaching, ledger bears on structural rim/solid masonry only; install self-adhered membrane + metal Z-flashing/drip cap in shingle sequence with end-dams and kick-out flashing near roofs.
• Add lateral load devices/tension ties at the ledger.
• Quick win: Include a ledger flashing detail and the fastener spacing table; note aluminum/ACQ isolation to prevent galvanic corrosion.
• LSI: ledger flashing, tension ties, Z-flashing, kick-out flashing, galvanic corrosion.

5) Frame, connectors & corrosion class

• Set beams on top of posts (with caps/notches); block over beams; double joists under guard posts.
• Use G-185/ZMAX hot-dip galvanized or stainless 304/316 connectors/fasteners with treated lumber; install full nail patterns in hangers.
• Add knee/diagonal bracing on tall/windy decks.
• Quick win: Hardware schedule with ICC-ESR numbers for hangers, structural screws, and hold-downs.
• LSI: G-185, ZMAX, stainless fasteners, hurricane ties, guard-post blocking.

6) Safety: guards, handrails & stairs

• Guards required when walking surface > 30 in above grade; 36 in guard height; <4 in sphere rule; stair triangle <6 in.
• Stairs: max riser 7-3/4 in, min tread 10 in, ≤3/8 in variation; handrail 34–38 in, graspable, 1-1/2 in clearance; headroom 6’-8” min.
• Provide egress lighting for stairs/landings; slip-resistant treads.
• Quick win: Add a stair section with all dimensions and a guard-post hold-down detail.
• LSI: 4-inch sphere rule, graspable handrail, stair nosing, headroom 6 ft 8 in, 200 lb point load.

7) Electrical & comfort (plan early)

• WR-TR receptacles on GFCI, extra-duty in-use covers; damp/wet-location fixtures; fan-rated box for a damp-rated ceiling fan.
• Use UF-B with protection or THWN in PVC; bond/ground any metal pergola or rail system.
• Quick win: Include a one-line (breaker size, wiring method, GFCI) and locate switches at primary entries; add step/post-cap lights.
• LSI: GFCI outdoor receptacle, in-use covers, WR/TR devices, THWN conduit, equipment grounding conductor.

8) Submit, inspect, document

• Submit plans (site, framing, footing, ledger flashing, connection schedule) for plan review; expect footing + final inspections (plus framing/rough electrical if applicable).
• Keep approved plans on site; photograph ledger and hardware before concealment.
• Quick win: Add a “Last reviewed: {month/year}” note for freshness and maintain a punch-list for final.
• LSI: deck permit Terre Haute, plan review, inspections, final sign-off, code compliance.